English: Identifier: mounteverestreco01howa

Title: Mount Everest, the reconnaissance, 1921 Year: 1922 (1920s) Authors: Howard-Bury, Charles, 1881- Leigh-Mallory, George Herbert, 1886-1924 Subjects: Mount Everest Expedition, 1921 Publisher: New York Longmans, Green and co. London, E. Arnold & co. Contributing Library: The Library of Congress Digitizing Sponsor: The Library of Congress

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Text Appearing Before Image: fect; I might feel as fit and fresh as I could wish on themoraine at the side but only once succeeded in crossing aglacier without feehng a despairing lassitude.I shall now proceed to quote from my diary:June 28.—A slack day in camp. It is difficult to inducecoolies to take any steps to make themselves more com-fortable. Were lucky to have this fine weather. Themountain appears not to be intended for climbing. Iveno inclination to think about it in steps to the summit.Nevertheless, we gaze much through field-glasses. E. is,generally speaking, convex, steep in lower parts and slantingback to summit. Last section of East arete * should go ;but rocks up to the shoulder are uninviting. An aretemust join up here, coming down towards us and connecting * It had not yet been established that the true direction of this areteis North-east. THE NOETHERN APPROACH 201 up with first peak to N.* Theres no true North arete tothe summit, as we had supposed at first. Its more Hkethis: 2d Peakto North

Text Appearing After Image: SUMMIT G. H. B. thinks Httle of the North-west arm. But Im notso siu-e; much easy going on that snow if we can get toit and rocks above probably easier than they look—steepbut broken. Are we seeing the true edge ? I wish somefolk at home could see the precipice on this side—a grimspectacle most unlike the long gentle snow slopes suggestedby photos. Amusing to think how ones vision of the lastefiort has changed; it looked like crawling half-bhnd upeasy snow, an even slope all the way up from a camp ona flat snow shoulder; but it wont be that sort of grind;well want climbers and not half-dazed ones; a tougherjob than I bargained for, sanguine as usual. E. is a rock mountain. Obviously we must get round to the West first. TheWestern glacier looks as flat as this one. Perhaps we shall * i.e. the North Peak (Changtse). 202 THE RECONNAISSANCE OF THE MOUNTAIN be able to walk round into another cwm* on the far side ofNorth-west buttress. June 29.—Estabhshed First Advanced Camp. The star

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