Identifier: travelspolitic00mill (find matches)
Title: Travels and politics in the Near East
Year: 1898 (1890s)
Authors: Miller, William, 1864-1945
Subjects: Eastern question (Balkan) Balkan Peninsula
Publisher: New York : Frederick A. Stokes
Contributing Library: University of California Libraries
Digitizing Sponsor: MSN

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ich is con-nected by two bridges with another island on one sideand with the mainland on the other. The town itself iscompletely walled in, and over its hoary gateways theusual lion of St. Mark bears silent witness to its formermasters. Within, the narrowest of streets, arched hereand there, lead to a piazza, where a still finer winged lionat the end of a loggia keeps guard over the splendidcathedral of Trau. To the classical scholar Trau is in-teresting, as having preserved that most curious novelof antiquity, the Trimalchios Supper of PetroniusArbiter. But its classical fame pales before that of Spalato,now, thanks to a swing-bridge, but one hours steam fromTrail, past a strip of coast the most fertile in all Dalmatia,where the Seven Castles, small towns like the castclliof the Roman Campagna, peep out from the refreshingverdure in a climate, the best in Dalmatia, and seem toswim in the water. On a height up the country standsout the ancient castle of Clissa, the key of the old main
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Travels and Politics in the Near East road into Bosnia, which has stamped its name in lettersof blood in the stormv history of these Illyrian lands.And then round a point the town of Spalato comes intoview, the tower of its cathedral covered with perpetualscaffolding—for- on both of my visits it was thus dis-figured. Spalato is no longer entirely built inside thefamous Palace of Diocletian, from which, by a slightcorruption, it derives its modern name. It still, indeed,presents the unique spectacle of houses, streets, andchurches, all massed together within the walls of whatwas one vast imperial mansion. But the new town hasoverfiowed beyond the walls, for Spalato is not only thelargest town in Dalmatia, but is also rapidly growing, andhas a great future as well as a great past. Hitherto it hassuffered from the jealousy of Hungary, which has re-solved at all costs to prevent it from competing with thefavoured Hungarian seaport of Fiume. It is for thisreason that the Hungarians have

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