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My lensesEdit

I will mention the lenses according to my preference and the amount of time I use them.
N Name Picture Description Thanks to
1 Nikon 50mm 1.8 D   Thanks to a commons user, it work fine and its my preffered lens that I use for everything ever for panoramic pictures using ptgui. User:Dcoetzee and User:Yann
2 Nikon 35mm 1.8G   very sharp, fast and light lens, very lovely. Work fine on low light situation, this and the other one 50mm are in the same sharp level. purchased at mercadolibre
3 Sigma DC 18-50mm 2.8   This lens was donated by another user (its actually a Beria lens) with a serious fungus problem, however, I managed to disarm it and clean it thanks to a Youtube video today it is very good (With small striped marks). This lens is incredibly much sharper than before cleaning it, however, it is not as sharp as 50mm and 35mm, I can not get many details, I usually use it always in 18mm. User:Jastrow
4 Nikon 85mm 1.8 D   I bought it at $cad 300 second hand probably used for many years. This lens is heavy and has a series of aberrations, it needs a lot of light to work well and it is also somewhat slow. the sigma 70-300 is much heavier but it is usually sharper at 85mm. I had thought to use this lens for portraits, however, when I arrived in Quebec and read the law about the photographs I found that it is illegal to make portraits to people without their permission. bought second hand in kijiji.ca
5 Sigma 70-300mm f/4-5.6 DG Macro Motorized Telephoto Zoom   thanks to a commons user. This lens has a very small fungus inside the lens, I have observed its growth and I believe that it passed away, however, I will try to take a picture later. This is the lens that I use the least because of its size and slowness. This lens has a small flaw of focus too (only on my D7200, it work fine on D300), but I've got very sharp photos in manual mode. User:Dcoetzee and User:Yann

I have too a Weifeng WF-6662A Tripod with with two screws lost in the panoramic head, I have to adjust some things manually so that it remains immobile, which forces me to carry with me a t8 key that a Brazilian seller gave me in a materials store. This other tripod has a good review on adorama and look like a good option. Btw, I think that I will go for NN forgetting the idea to buy another lens for the moment (I dont know if i need a Arca-Swiss plate for this tripod) --Photographer 01:50, 3 February 2019 (UTC)

Looking at the ball head of your tripod, the quick-release plate looks specific to that manufacturer. The advantage to the Arca Swiss clamp and plate is that it is relatively standard, so you can leave the plate on your camera and it will fit a variety of heads: your tripod directly or the NN3. And if you stick a plate onto the NN3 then it will go onto your ball head, giving you a level base. If you don't do that, you'll be forever transferring the plates over. The Slik tripod you link to doesn't come with a head, which will be another cost. I sounds like your existing tripod is not reliable or convenient. I have a Benro Travel Angel tripod and am impressed with Benro for quality and it folds up compactly so I can strap it to the side of my camera bag. Have a look at something like Benro Tripster 1 Series. It comes with a ball head with Arca Swiss plate and folds up very compact.
If you get a good portable tripod, the NN3 head and use that with the 35 and 50mm lenses, you should be all set to create excellent panoramas in high resolution. Then consider the 8mm fisheye to create 360° views. The IR remote control will be very handy to avoid shake on the tripod. The Benro tripod will come with a plate you can leave on the camera, and the same plate should be compatible with the NN3 clamp. The NN3 does not come with any plate for the base, so you should consider another small Arca Swiss plate for that. A 60mm plate like this should be fine. You can see in the second photo, the little silver bolts at each end. These stop the plate sliding out of the clamp if it ever becomes loose. -- Colin (talk) 18:19, 3 February 2019 (UTC)

Thanks Colin, I had already seen that Benro Travel Angel tripod that you show me, I think it's a good option, the list would be this way. I think it's worth the sacrifice of buying a good tripod that will not give me problems with loose or disrupted screws that generate small movements that make the photos blurred. The list updated is the follow:

Camera Tripod

CDN$ 175

Nodal ninja (Free sheeping to canada)

CDN$ 340.52

Shutter

CDN$ 10

Rokinon HD8M-N 8mm f/3.5

CDN$ 309

Arca-Swiss

CDN$ 12.34

How many "RM CLICK STOPS" I should select when I'm buying the NN?. IMHO more is better if Im using a tele lens, but I dont know the exact number --Photographer 19:28, 3 February 2019 (UTC)

The NN3 comes with a 12° (30 stops) ring which causes the bottom rotator to pause at each point. Remember the camera is held in portrait mode in the NN3, so each horizontal step corresponds to the vertical field of view of your camera, plus an allowance for overlap between frames. If you look at this website you see that a 50mm lens on your DX camera has 12.5° steps for a 30% overlap. So the standard ring will do that. Your 35mm lens would ideally use the 18° ring. If you used the 10° ring and stopped every second stop (20°), that would be about a 20% overlap which is probably fine. At 85mm you'd need a stop every 7° which is beyond what the NN3 comes with. At the bottom of this NN3 page is a table that has figures. The centre of the table has your DX Nikon and you should look at the portrait column. I think that table has figures for about a 22% overlap. So you can see the stops don't help beyond 50mm lens on DX. I've currently got mine set to 15° but often don't bother with the stops and judge the horizontal steps by eye. If I have people moving in the scene then often I include a lot more overlap than the panorama software needs, so that every part of the image has at least two frames to pick from. Then I can erase people if they twin or don't work out. I don't think there is much point buying a ring that is just a multiple of another (e.g. 36° is three stops at 12°). Perhaps get the 10° and that may be useful for the 35mm and 85mm (at 2x and 0.5x steps). It is a little awkward to change the rings, so you don't want to have to keep doing that. That's why the dearer model has a base where you use little plugs to determine how often to click. The dearer one can handle 3.5kg vs 1.5kg on the mini rotator, so it will be more sturdy too. -- Colin (talk) 09:32, 4 February 2019 (UTC)
For the tripod, the one I linked is the Benro Tripster Travel Tripod (specs here) which can handle 8kg. My Benro Travel Angel II Carbon Fibre can handle 14kg so is a fair bit stronger (it is also a less compact when folded and slightly heavier than the Tripster 1 series). But it is also a lot more expensive, and I've heard that Carbon Fibre can be brittle in extreme cold, so perhaps another reason you should stick to aluminium -- the weight saving isn't much. As a budget tripod it will be a little more wobbly than a big one and the ball head may not be as strong. But hopefully it will be light and compact enough you don't mind carrying it. With the NN3 and camera on top, the tripod will be very top-heavy. So watch out for wind or uneven surfaces. Don't extend the centre column much with the NN3, as I think it will then be too wobbly. The centre column may have a hook on the base where you can attach a small bag to help lower the centre of gravity, but don't attach too heavy a bag. All ball heads tend to droop a little when you tighten them. Rotating the ball into the side for portrait orientation puts a lot of strain so that is where you will find out if it is up to the job. If it droops too much, it will be a pain to use and may be worth returning for another model. -- Colin (talk) 09:32, 4 February 2019 (UTC)
Amazon UK have excellent customer service and returns, and I assume your Canadian one is similar. So if you aren't happy with it then it can be returned. Do B&H ship to you? They are another reputable shop. I would be very wary of ordering kit from China via Aliexpress or Ebay (where the trader is in China). You may be hit with customs import charges and it can be difficult to return the goods for repair or warranty. -- Colin (talk) 09:32, 4 February 2019 (UTC)
Dear Colin, sorry for the delay in answer you, but all things arrived at my house (except for the nodal ninja), the purchase service here is very fast. What surprised me most is the usefulness of having a remote control, however, the range is not more than one meter, btw The NN3 I think I'll go with the 10 degrees, so maybe I'll get working it with the 85mm. I think I could also do it manually without those stops. I will be experimenting with this and then I give you a feedback :), the lens work perfectly and fast and I know that I dont need focus confirmation but it work too --Photographer 00:53, 6 February 2019 (UTC)
The Photographer, that's good news. Shame the remote control range isn't far. Have you found where the IR sensor is on the camera? Mine is at the front so if I have the camera on a tripod, and I'm standing behind, I have to reach round the camera to point it at the sensor. But at least you don't get any vibration. With my 500mm lens, you can really see any camera shake when you touch the camera to adjust anything or press buttons. So I notice it is worth waiting a couple of seconds after making any adjustments, to let it settle down, and then press the remote shutter. I have also used the remote for taking a group photo where I'm in the shot. I'm glad the lens is ok. If you find that the infinity mark isn't at infinity focus, let me know and I'll try to find the web page with instructions for adjustment. I agree that for the NN you might find you don't need or want the stops -- you may be able to turn the disc upside down so that there are no detents. -- Colin (talk) 08:23, 6 February 2019 (UTC)

Panoramic headEdit

Dear Colin, I have been looking for stores that can bring me the nodal ninja, verifying the taxes imposed on the price to the NN, the parent company sent by UPS only and finally the free shipping is no longer available, this would add a significant additional value to the original price and rates. freight, the NN3 MK3 + Nadir Adapter w/ Lower Rotator Mini Pkg (F3302) price is 460,8 $ CAD, while the SUNWAYFOTO CR-3015A is 360,29 $ CAD, and 192,27 $ CAD for SunwayFoto CR-30C. I have been reading some reviews where they comment that the SUNWAYFOTO could generate more stitching errors. It is evident that the three models do different things and cover different degrees, however, it is not clear to me which would be better. BTW, taking pictures of this type is what I like the most and NN was always a dream for me, however, I remember some time ago you recommended me to buy the D7200 instead of the D750, which was a wise decision, and in this case I would like to know if the same analogy applies to SUNWAYFOTO and NN. Thanks --Photographer 05:17, 9 February 2019 (UTC)
User:The Photographer, I found the same NN from B&H photo to Canada for about 438CAD, but still, that's a lot of money for something you won't use all the time. A concern I have with the Sunwayfoto CR-30C is that it is 334g which is about half the weight of the NN. Both are about the same size, which is great for an APS-C DSLR or mirrorless. Diliff used the NN3 with his full frame Canon but then upgraded to the larger NN -- I think some of the big Sigma lenses were too large and heavy combined with his big camera. But the larger NN's are really quite big and heavy, which makes transporting them more of a consideration and hassle. So I'm wondering if the Sunwayfoto CR-30C might be a little weak if used a lot.
The other Sunwayfoto head you linked to is larger, heavier and more expensive. It also doesn't come with an Arca-Swiss clamp, so that's a real pain to have screw it onto your camera to use it. You could do what one reviewer did, and what I did with my older NN3 MKII is put a small Arca-Swiss clamp onto the NN plate. But I don't really recommend that as an ideal solution as it makes it heavier and limits the horizontal adjustment you can do.
Another panoramic head I have found is a Chinese model available under several brands but with code PH-720B. For example, Andoer PH-720B at 205CAD from Amazon.ca. It is also available direct from China Mengs PH-720B. However, you'll need to consider the risk and hassle of importing where the possible customs charges could outweigh the saving, and where returning goods is more hassle than with Amazon. I've heard of both Andoer and Mengs -- they sell budget camera accessories on Amazon and the Gumptrade website is owned by Mengs. This panoramic head is about 790g according to Amazon. There is a Youtube unboxing video for it. It is in Russian so I don't understand it, but it looks nice quality and all metal parts.
A larger head than the PH-720B is the PH-720A, such as the Mengs PH-720A. It is larger, heavier and has a feature to rotate the vertical rail to capture the Nadir in a 360° panorama. However, I suspect you can flip the PH-702B vertical rail by 180° too. It is rated for 15kg vs 10kg so is stronger (if you believe the manufacturer). My feeling is that the extra weight and size are too much and not necessary for your camera. You need to remember that the heavier and larger head will make your lightweight travel tripod less stable. I haven't found that PH-702A model available for a good price on Amazon.ca.
So I think you should consider the Andoer PH-720B from Amazon.ca or Mengs PH-720B from China. They are exactly the same head, but you need to decide to choose the safety of Amazon or possible price saving by ordering direct. The head has 3 good reviews on Amazon.co.uk. Another bonus is that the base already has an Arca-Swiss fitting, so will fit onto your ball head directly. And the vertical clamp is Arca-swiss so fits onto your camera with the plate that came with your tripod. -- Colin (talk) 21:45, 9 February 2019 (UTC)
Everything indicates that I will have an additional unused Arca-Swiss, however, the option of the Andoer PH-720B seems to be a robust option but I do not know if it is possible not to use the stops and make stops manually in case of lenses that need less than 15 degrees (like 85mm what could use 11 degrees, for example). With respect to the 360 degree panoramas, it may not be possible with this Andoer PH-720B because it would always be part of the exposed tripod ?. Thanks --Photographer 22:22, 9 February 2019 (UTC)
User:The Photographer, yes if you already bought an arca-swiss plate, it would not be needed for this (only for NN). But Amazon should allow you to return it. A review at the bottom of this page says "it is made with perfection and can do flawless 360 photos that are easy to stich and fix erros at NADIR & ZENITH". Looking at how it is assembled and the way the vertical arm fits into the wedge on the horizontal arm, I am very confident that you just unscrew it and flip it 180° to make a nadir photo with the tripod head and legs now out of the shot (moving the tripod over a little, so the camera is back at the rotation point). Wrt stops, if you want the base to have no stop clicks, just don't screw the little knob in. Even with clicks, you will be able to stop half-way and then tighten at any position you like. -- Colin (talk) 22:35, 9 February 2019 (UTC)
I've been playing for a while with the rokinon taking pictures inside my room, it's a sensational lens, I like how those shapes look with exaggerated perspective and incredible sharpness. Gracias Colin for the explain, I will return the arca-swiss plate to amazon. --Photographer 02:05, 10 February 2019 (UTC)
Good. You now need to find subjects and compositions that work well with it. How is the tripod? Is the ball head a good one? -- Colin (talk) 09:08, 10 February 2019 (UTC)

Btw, earlier you mentioned a Sunwayfoto head might generate more stitching errors. I don't think this is possible with any of these heads if used correctly and the head is big enough for the camera & lens. If you had one of those huge DSLRs with battery packs in the base, then these compact pano heads don't have the horizontal width to get the entrance pupil (aka no parallax point or NPP) over the rotator. And a few lenses have their NPP so far from the camera sensor that the top-most arm isn't long enough to align that point either. If someone used a head that was too small, they wouldn't be able to get the NPP in position. There are lots of guides for finding the NPP (here's one). The horizontal position is simply due to your camera model so once you've set that, you'll never need to change it unless you change your camera or QR plate (a thicker or thinner plate might change it slightly). The other position (depth?) changes from lens to lens. Both Diliff and I have found you don't need to be perfectly accurate with that for many situations. For example, if one lens is at 56mm and another at 61mm then you might get away with either value or a value in between. I have also found that Smartblend is often better than PtGui's own blend tool (though must slower). In addition to possible stitching errors, you will have found you get seams showing up if the frames are different in any way. For example, the light changes between shots, or someone moves, and for distant shots, heat shimmer. Smartblend seems to be extra intelligent at choosing where to put the seams, and to blend them invisibly. -- Colin (talk) 10:35, 10 February 2019 (UTC)

The tripod is quite small that my old tripod, the legs are interchangeable manually, that is, I need to remove the legs used for asphalt manually unscrewing and then place the legs for sandy soils (metal claws). When you open the tripod completely, the last thin section seems very weak, so it probably does not extend too much. The system of undoing to open the legs looks more delicate or weak than the old system used in my old tripod that was basically a prastic click that released the legs. Many pieces of the tripod appear to be plastic and appear to be a complex design made up of many small parts joined together. The upper part of the tripod is much better designed than my old tripod, the threads (rotating knob) to release the movement of the ball are quite accurate, however, everything is made of hard plastic. My old tripod had a more inaccurate ball movement mechanism, however, everything was made of solid iron and the pieces were simpler, which generates in me a concern about the ease of any piece being worn and lost. I feel that this tripod is more sophisticated but not necessarily weaker, maybe time will tell, however, it is considerably smaller which forces me to be more crouched or seated (however, my height is 2 meters, so the problem could be me). The most positive thing that I observe of the new tripod is its weight and its pretty accurate ball head. I just bought the Andoer, amazon says it will arrive in a month, I also returned to Amazon the Arca-Swiss, however, the amazon system tells me that I do not need to send it physically, that is, in theory Amazon is giving it away. Regarding the software of union of photos, by the moment the one that has solved more problems of union for me has been Photoshop, also probe autopano pro obtaining better results than ptgui, nevertheless, the quality of the image thrown by ptgui was always superior , in addition to its speed. I think ptgui uses hugin internally. Regarding your explanations, it is something that seems simple, however in a month I will be able to follow the guidelines (url) that you have sent me. I tried to go out and take some pictures, however, the weather is very cold, it is like feeling a constant pain (-30 C) --Photographer 00:25, 11 February 2019 (UTC)
User:The Photographer, the spare plate may be useful at some other time with another accessory. It is a shame your camera has a fixed rear screen, as I find a tilting screen very handy for use with tripod and this would avoid you bending down so far to see the screen or look through the viewfinder. This assumes, though, the sunlight is not too bright for the screen, and that I wear my reading glasses. If this tripod is too small, and it doesn't look used, then you could still consider returning it and we look for a larger one. I don't think you want to normally be extending the middle column, especially when you add the height of the ball head and panoramic head, it will make it very top heavy and more wobbly or even blow over. My tripod also has different feet that I could use for sand vs hard surface, though I haven't used them. There are lots of tripods to consider, so have a think. We don't want you getting a bad back from stooping! -- Colin (talk) 08:35, 11 February 2019 (UTC)
User:The Photographer if you are able to return your Tripster tripod then have a look at the Benro Adventure 2 Series Aluminum Tripod w/ B2 Ball Head. You can compare the specs: Adventure 2 Series vs Tripster Travel 1 Series. This is dearer at 296CAD rather than 205CAD. It is a little heavier at 1.8kg vs 1.5kg. The max height without using the centre column is 135.4cm vs 116.6 which is an extra 19cm. With the centre column extended, it is 6cm taller. It only has 4 leg sections rather than 5 sections, which makes it stronger, makes the legs thicker, but does not fold down so small -- 52.6cm vs 36.1cm. It has a much stronger ball head -- the B2 head rather than what looks like the B0 head. You can also see that it does not have the two thick neck sections above where the legs meet, making it less top-heavy and much more rigid. It should also mean it is more stable if you do extend the centre column. The legs use the flip locks rather than twist locks. I have used both and think both are ok. If the extra length when folded is not a problem for you, then I would recommend you consider this one. I think it is worth paying a little more for a tripod that is stronger, as it will last better and be more comfortable to use. In my experience, Amazon are excellent for returns, and particularly when you want to swap for something else. -- Colin (talk) 09:52, 11 February 2019 (UTC)
User:The Photographer, the above Benro Adventure tripod doesn't seem in stock on Amazon today, and only sold by 3rd party sellers for a silly price. Perhaps you could work out how much B&H will ship to you. Alternatively, if you want an even taller tripod and don't mind taking a gamble with an unknown brand, K&F concept tripod is 144.5cm without the centre column extended and 169cm when extended. It is even heavier at 1.99kg. The tripod neck is a bit longer than the Benro Adventure because it incorporates a 3D feature where you can put the centre column horizontal, which is useful for some macro work, but will make it slightly less stable than one with a short neck. They also do a Carbon Fibre version that is 142cm tall without the centre column extended. It is lighter at 1.5kg due to the carbon fibre. I know aluminium legs get extremely cold to touch in very cold weather (all these tripods have one leg with foam to hold). Carbon fibre isn't so bad to touch, but I have heard it can get brittle in very cold weather. You might want to read a bit about that if you are considering it. I can't vouch for the quality of those two, thought the Amazon reviews seem positive, it looks well designed, and is nearly as tall as tripods get (some are 150cm). -- Colin (talk) 09:11, 12 February 2019 (UTC)
I see the Benro Adventure is available on ebay with 5 year guarantee (only briefly used). That might be worth considering as likely to be more reliable long-term than unknown brand with unknown warranty. -- Colin (talk) 11:08, 12 February 2019 (UTC)
I am waiting for an offer from the same manufacturer because it is not available directly. I will keep you informed, for the time being, I will return the other tripod and in parallel I will try to repair the old --Photographer 02:48, 13 February 2019 (UTC)
User:The Photographer. Good. I had forgotten how tall you were. I also didn't notice the long neck on that small tripod which, when you add a panoramic head to the ball head, will make it very top-heavy and less stable. So have you contacted Benro directly? I did have a look at tripods from other brands but they were mostly more expensive or had proprietary quick-release clamp/plate which is too much of a hassle.
Have you heard of CamelCamelCamel. They track Amazon prices and you can look at the historical price for e.g. Benro Adventure. You can click options to track Amazon's own price and/or third party sellers. They had a sever crash recently so there is a little gap in their data, but they are working again now. If you create an account with them, you can set up a notification to get an email when the price for a product drops below a certain value. So for example, you could get an email when the price for that tripod falls below 300 CAD, which is should do again when they get stock back. -- Colin (talk) 08:49, 13 February 2019 (UTC)
Nice I never heard about camel page, I will use that to track the tripod (normal price 300$ and right now 450$) amazon price. BTW, I had some doubts about this lens, however, it is incredibly sharp in low light (maybe i used too much ISO) condition WOW!! and I think I'll join the fan club of those generic glasses. --Photographer 02:47, 14 February 2019 (UTC)
User:The Photographer, the EXIF for that photo says f/18. You shouldn't need to go much above f/8. See DoF calculator. It says at f/8 if you focus at 0.5m then everything from 0.22m to infinity is "acceptably" sharp. Of course, for the pixel peepers on Commons, you may want to increase that a little (either f/11 or focus a little further like 1m or 1.5m). At f/5.6 if you focus at 1m then everything from 0.36m to infinity is "acceptably" sharp. You can see from this review that the sharpest apertures are f/5.6 and f/8 (though f/11 is still very good). With such extreme DoF you won't need autofocus! Just make sure your lens is accurately calibrated so 1m, 1.5,, 3m and infinity are all where they should be. Then set the dial to about 2m, say, and forget about it. The only thing you have to watch is the make sure the focus ring hasn't moved when you take the camera out of your bag. -- Colin (talk) 08:00, 14 February 2019 (UTC)
Dear Colin, I found a discount and I bought both the new tripod Benro Adventure 2 and the Andoer PH-720B arrived today and I can tell you that the quality of the new tripod is incredibly superior than the old one amazing!!!, especially the panoramic head and the previous tripod was of such poor quality that it would look like another brand .. The ball is very solid, big and feels stable, however, the tripod is incredibly light . The size is similar to my previous tripod but with a more accurate panoramic head, stable, better material and a large list of etc. I am without money, but very happy with this acquisition. I have removed the panoramic head and I placed the Andorer that has a screw inlet that fits perfectly with the tripod. On the other hand, the Andorer feels solid and indestructible but very precise, I do not know how an original Nodal Ninja would be, however, Andorer gives me a very good impression. While I'm waiting for my user to be renamed, I'll start reading tutorials on how it works. --67.68.177.192 23:48, 20 February 2019 (UTC) this comment was done by User:The Photographer without do login because my user is temporally locked
User:The Photographer I'm very happy with the tripod news. Worth paying more, and I guess the previous one was too little money to expect good quality, but also the previous one was more aimed at travel with small size. You said you removed the panoramic ball head and fitted the Andoer directly to the tripod. You can do that, and it will be fine on a level floor, but if the top of the tripod is not level then the panorama you make will tilt as you rotate the base. It is tedious to adjust the legs to make the top of the tripod level. Much easier to keep the ball head and fit the Andoer on top of it. I think the Andoer base is Arca Swiss so should fit to the clamp of the ball head. Then you can use the ball head to level things. It is possible to buy a levelling base (see this search) which is not so tall as a ball head. But keeping the ball head on gives you all the flexibility when out for a shoot -- you can photograph using the ball head or the Andoer panoramic head without having to get out a screwdriver or Allen key to remove something.
Wrt the Andoer quality, the test will be when you mount your camera and heavy lens to the head and rotate it about. Does it hold it strongly without sagging or leaning over? When you tighten the knobs after rotating, does it hold firm? If so, then I think it will be fine. Have you tried to see if the vertical arm can be turned 180° to take a nadir photo? I think it might be best to remove the camera from the clamp when you do that, or be careful to hold the camera strongly while you do it. -- Colin (talk) 08:53, 21 February 2019 (UTC)
Dear Colin, I have done every tests that you have told me, all have happened normally. The panoramic head seems quite robust maybe too much, I feel the impression that a bulldozer could pass over this and continue the same, btw, the vertical arm (where the camera rests directly) is a little hard, When I try to raise and lower the arm I need to make pressure, makes stops of degrees, I think it could be the only negative point difficulty of desc and asc the arm. I do not even understand what the knob that squeezes the arm is for if it is quite rigid at the stops. On the other hand, I have been doing the exercises to find the nodal point, however, when trying to join the panoramic, I have had difficulties with some unification errors between the images using Autopano Giga. The new tripod and its huge ball, and the remote control have become the new object of my adoration at home. I have taken a private photo of my house that I have sent you by email (it is a private photo and my user of commons is blocked (due to the process of rename user without date of realization) to upload other examples), I would like to hear your criticism, I still can not get out of the house to take pictures due to the harsh winter, the snow mountains of more than 4 meters completely cover the front parts of the houses and white is basically the only color. Thanks --67.68.177.192 22:07, 24 February 2019 (UTC)
User:The Photographer, my NN vertical arm has degree markings but no stops that it clicks on. I just have to loosen the knob and turn. I'm not sure why yours is so stiff -- did you loosen it enough? How is are the stops achieved on that arm? If there is a disc with dents in it every 15° perhaps this disc can be reversed to a blank side so that there are no stops at all? Perhaps you just need to exercise it a bit to relax it? I'll have a look at your photo later. For the 360° photos, User:Diliff andUser:Code have experience of this -- I haven't yet created one. So it might be useful to contact them, they are always willing to offer advice and help. Perhaps your nodal point isn't quite found yet. -- Colin (talk) 08:42, 25 February 2019 (UTC)

Message on behalf of The PhotographerEdit

Due to an ongoing rename request The Photographer is currently locked out of their account. The rename request is currently hung up due to the large amount of edits associated with the account (phab ticket). Per their request on IRC they wanted someone to post here to let you know that they are unable to continue whatever conversation they were having with you until the rename is complete. --Majora (talk) 00:20, 19 February 2019 (UTC)

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