Title: American homes and gardens
Identifier: americanhomesgar81911newy (find matches)
Year: 1905 (1900s)
Authors:
Subjects: Architecture, Domestic; Landscape gardening
Publisher: New York : Munn and Co
Contributing Library: Smithsonian Libraries
Digitizing Sponsor: Biodiversity Heritage Library

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408 AMERICAN HOMES AND GARDENS November, 1911 before it has set, for the purpose of holding the sills firmly in place, as shown in Figure 8. After the concrete has set and the sills have been put in place the foundation may then be capped with a thin mixture of cement mortar, made of one part cement and two parts sand. The cost of materials varies from $2.50 to $4.06 per cubic yard of concrete, de- pending on the kind and prices of the ingredients used. A cubic yard of concrete made of the proportions given above will contain 1.29 barrels of cement, 0.45 cubic yards of sand and 0.91 cubic yards of gravel or broken stone. By obtaining the local price of cement, sand and gravel, the cost of the foundation can easily be estimated. FRAMEWORK The framework, as shown in Figure 8, is simply a skele- ton composed of timbers called sills, posts, vertical sash bars, eave-plates, roof sash bars, rafters and ridge. These timbers should be made of cypress, for, on account of its straight grain, strength and durability, this has been found to be the wood best adapted for greenhouse construction. They should be made of such shapes and sizes and put together in such a manner that they will properly hold the the glass, support their required weights and yet cast the least possible amount of shade. Figure 7 shows the proper a method entails more work and the header, if very long, is invariably apt to sag and to prove unsatisfactory. GLASS The glass used should be "double thick" and of the sec- ond or third quality. Third quality glass, which contains a few more imperfections than second quality, costs a little less and is frequently very satisfactory. The panes may be 16x20 inches or 20x24 inches, for these have been found to be the economical sizes, and they should be set so that the sash bars are spaced i6J/2 inches on centers. The cost of this size glass at the present time is $2.28 per box (of 23 panes) for third quality and $2.50 for second quality. BENCHES. The construction of the benches is comparatively simple. They should be at least two feet in height and from two to five feet in width, depending on where and how they are located. The supports should be made of 2x3 inch or 2x4 inch timber, and the bench proper of % or i-inch boards. They should be deep enough to contain five inches of earth. The arrangement of the benches should be such that the plants will at all times be readily accessible. Benches which are placed next to the sides of the house should not be over 3 feet 3 inches wide. When there is a walk on each side
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An even-span greenhouse may be attractively arranged as an extension to a country dwelling even of moderate proportions shapes and minimum dimensions (A, roof sash bar; B, vertical sash bar; C, eave plate; D, ridge; E, end rafter; F, sill), which have been determined by greenhouse car- penters after years of experience, and Figures 4, 5, 6, and 9 show the best methods of framing. No further comment is necessary on the shape and dimen- sions, but some of the methods of framing shown require a little explanation. The method of framing the eaves is shown in Figure 10 and in detail at B, Figure 9. The sash bars simply rest on the wide face of the eave plate and the space between the eave plate and the glass is filled in with a piece of seven eighths inch board as shown at A, and in the photograph. Two methods of framing at the corner posts are shown in Figures 4 and 5. Figure 4 shows the corner of a house about 24 feet wide, the post being 4 inches square, reinforced by two pieces of timber 2 inches square. The photograph, Figure 5, shows the corner of a small house about 10 feet wide, where the corner post consists simply of two pieces of 2x4 inch timber, one of them supporting the end rafter and the other the eave plate. The method of framing at the ventilator opening is in- dicated in Figure 6. The header is simply a piece of seven eighths inch board two or three inches wide, notched to fit over the sash bars (which also are notched) and rabbeted to receive the glass. Some carpenters prefer to put in a heavy header and end the sash bars at the header, but such they may be as wide as 5 feet. The walks should be at least 18 inches in width. Many florists prefer not to place any benches next to the sides of the house, claiming that the plants are more liable to have diseases and more apt to be affected by outside temperature on cold nights. Space can be economized in the small house and very satisfactory results can be ob- tained if the benches are, however, so arranged. HEATING SYSTEM. Although it costs about 20 per cent, more to install, the hot-water system should be used for heating the house in preference to the steam-heating system, for two reasons: First, because, particularly in the small house, it is more economical to operate, and, second, because, on account of the lower temperature of the heat radiated and the greater amount of radiation required, it produces a milder and more uniform heat. The size and arrangement of the pipes and the amount of radiating surface required for the heating system are matters which the amateur should look into before installing his apparatus; but, as they require considerable study and as the installation of the apparatus is difficult work and re- quires special tools, skill and experience, he will do well to employ a plumber or heating engineer, who will figure the amount of radiation and install the system properly. The extra expense of help from the experts just mentioned will be somewhat offset in the non-purchase of the special tools.

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