Title: Bulletin
Identifier: bulletin3021910smit (find matches)
Year: 1901 (1900s)
Authors: Smithsonian Institution. Bureau of American Ethnology
Subjects: Ethnology
Publisher: Washington : G. P. O.
Contributing Library: Smithsonian Libraries
Digitizing Sponsor: Smithsonian Libraries

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322 PUEBLOS (b. a. e. the Indians before the coming of the Spaniards in the 16th century. In s. Arizona, in association with ancient ruins, pictographs and figurines repre- senting a llama-like quadruped have been found, the rock-pictures indicating the animals as being herded by men with bolas. Theancientclothingof Pueblo men con- sisted typically of a short tunic of deerskin and trousers of the same material reaching to the knees; leggings of skin or of cotton, fastened at the knees, held in place by a narrow garter woven in pattern; and moccasins of deerskin with rawhide soles neatly sewn with sinew. Knitted footless stockings of yarn are now commonly worn by both men and women, with or without leggings. A piece of skin (now usually fresh goatskin), with hairy side inward and entirely incasing the foot, was used over the moccasin in snowy weather. The breechcloth is universally worn by males. The warriors wore a close-fit- ust" â¢â ,^.«h»6*;, -â¢- -t^wsw^iir-' ting capof skill, ventilated with numerous holes and decorated with feathers; this cap is still worn as a part of the ceremo- nial costume of the Priests of the Bow, of Zuiii. Evi- dence pro- duced by exca- vation in the cliff-dwellings indicates that garments wo- ven of yucca fiber, as well as of cotton with feathers, were also used in early times. Sandals of yucca or other fibers were worn instead of moccasins. The hair of the Pueblo men is "banged" above the eyes, cut horizontally at the neck line, and the back hair gathered and tied with a woven band into a tight knot behind. A headband, now usually a bandana handkerchief, is always worn by men and boys of the western Pueblos, but those of the Rio Grande valley, except during ceremonies, wear the hair in side plaits and require no headband. After the introduction of sheep, woven woolen garments largely replaced the skin tunics and trousers of the men, and the cheap cotton fabrics of commerce in time super- seded Avoolen goods to a great extent. Robes of twisted strands of rabbit skin and wildcat skin were worn in cold weather, and were employed also as bed- ding; but these have given place almost entirely to the bright-colored blankets,
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VALLEY PUEBLOâZUNI, NEW MEXICO identical with the so-called Navah o blan- kets," of native wool, bayeta, or commer- cial yarn, woven by both men and women among the Zuni and the Hopi, and worn especially on gala occasions. The orna- ments of the men consist of necklaces cf ground and drilled shell and turquoise beads, turquoise being mined in consider- able quantity at Los Cerillos, N. Mex. (the Queres of San Felipe serving as the chief traders in the product); and of ear and neck pendants of the same ma- terials, and beautifully executed mosaics of shell and turquoise and other colored stones. Leather belts and wrist-guards ornamented with large disks of coin silver are commonly worn and are highly prized, and leggings and moccasins are usually studded with silver buttons. German sil- ver and copper are sometimes employed for ornamentation, but these metals are not highly regarded by the Pueblos. Their metal-working process was derived from the Span- iards. The clothing of the women now consists of a woolen dress of native weave, knee-length, made in the form of a blank- et, the two ends being sewn together; the garment is worn over the right shoulder and under the left, and belted at the waist with a very long woven sash, usually of red and green wool, fringed at the ends and tucked in; a cotton shirt extend- ing to the knees; for indoor use, knitted leggings of yarn; for outdoor use, and especially on gala occasions, leggings con- sisting of an entire deerskin wrapped round and round from below the knee to the ankle and forming part of the moc- casins of the same material. The leggings and moc'i-asins, unlike those of the men, are not dyed. The women wear also a light cotton mantle, and when the weather demands, a woolen blanket similar to the iilankets above mentioned. A valued possession is the "ceremonial blanket" of white cotton, embroidered, knotted, and fringed. Among some of the Pueblos the hair of the married women is banged slightly in front, parted in the middle, and wrapped in two coils back of the ears; girls who had reached the marriageable age had the hair arranged in two large whorls at the sides of the head: these

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