Identifier: impressionsofspa00herbuoft (find matches)
Title: Impressions of Spain in 1866
Year: 1867 (1860s)
Authors: Herbert of Lea, Mary Elizabeth Herbert, Baroness, 1822-1911
Subjects: Spain -- Description and travel
Publisher: London, Bentley
Contributing Library: Robarts - University of Toronto
Digitizing Sponsor: MSN

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e Lord is the beginningof wisdom. Equally elaborate is the carvingof the fagade of San Esteban, in a j)laza a littlebelow the cathedral. The beautiful creamy colourof the stone adds immensely to the effect of allthis work. But the French destroyed and dese-crated every religious building in Salamanca :only ruined cloisters, bare refectories, and muti-lated doorways remain to testify to past beau-ties. From the cathedral our travellers went up thesteep hill to the Irish College, having a letterfrom the English minister at Madrid to theprincipal; but he was ill and unable to see them.His students, however, received them with heartyexpressions of welcome, and offered to be theircicerones during their stay in Salamanca. Itwas so curious to hear a very decided Irish broguein the patio of a Spanish convent. But theirnumbers are few; and the University itself hasdwindled down to 400 or 500 students insteadof the 17,000 talked of in the sixteenth cen-tury. Cardinal Ximenes was once tutor in a
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Palace, Guadalajara. SALAMANCA. 239 n college here; and Cervantes lived for a longtime in a house still pointed out as his in theCalle de los Moros. The palaces in Salamancaare very beautiful, especially the Casa de lasConchas, so called from the pecten shells pro-jecting out of each stone; the Casa de lasSalinas, with its overhanging roof and galleryand richly ornamented windows ; and the Palaciodel Conde de Monterey, with its turrets and anupper gallery of arcaded windows, which looklike the rich lace frino^e of the solid buildino-below. After lionising the whole morning, oneof the party went to call on the bishop, a manuniversally esteemed and beloved in Salamanca,who received his visitor with fatherly kindness,and at once volunteered to walk with her andshow her the different conventual establishments,which she had obtained Papal permission to see.The lady soon found, however, that walking withthe bishop, though a great honour, was a mat-ter of some difficulty. No sooner did his b

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