Identifier: tafiletnarrative00harr (find matches)
Title: Tafilet; the narrative of a journey of exploration in the Atlas mountains and the oases of the north-west Sahara
Year: 1895 (1890s)
Authors: Harris, Walter, 1866-1933
Subjects:
Publisher: London, W. Blackwood and sons
Contributing Library: Mugar Memorial Library, Boston University
Digitizing Sponsor: Boston University

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nd their pack-animals spend the night. The village communityfurnishes a guard at the only entrance to this zareha,and in case of robbery the inhabitants are held re-sponsible by the Government. In return for thisresponsibility they collect a small tax from any whomake use of their protection. The system is a goodone, and theft is very uncommon, it being greatlyto the villagers benefit to carefully guard the travel-lers property and exact the small fee, rather than bystealing call down upon themselves the wrath of thenative Government and the rapacity of the localofficials. So at the last nzala on the road from Saffi toMarakesh we spent the night, pitching our onelittle tent in the zareha, and hiring an elderlyfemale, who possessed only one eye, to cook ussome supper in her hut of thatch ; and, considering 16 PREPARATIONS AND START. that her fire consisted only of bunches of thistles,which had to be replaced almost as soon as they werelit, she performed her task with skill and success.
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^ The next morning, at the tail of our little caravan,I entered i\Iarakesh on foot, grimy and travel-stained, and reached my destination, the house of SID ABU BEKE. 17 Sid Abu Bekr el Ghanjaui, without attracting anyattention as a Christian in disguise. Here comfort, even luxury, awaited me, and pleasantindeed were the eight days I spent in the city beforecontinuing my journey—this time into unknownreoions. Sid Abu Bekr el Ghanjaui is almost the best-knownman in Morocco, and probably the most disliked, afact in which he takes particular pride. Protectedby the British Government, to all intents and pur-poses a British subject, he has by these means beenable to amass a large fortune withqut the nativeGovernment having annexed it and imprisoned thepossessor. Whether this fortune has been altogethercollected by creditable means, according to Europeanideas of business, I am unable to say, nor is it amatter of any importance. Suffice it that his fortunehas made him many enemies, whose jea

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